34. I am leaking oil from my flex joint in my hot pipe, why is that?

If your flex coupling is leaking oil, this is because you are running your engine way too rich, or you have way too big of a prop on the engine, or you are just idling the engine around slow and easy. The engine was not made to be a trolling motor, it was intended to be run reasonably fast. Some oil may leak after you first fire up your engine and it’s had Rost off in it and it is still running rich but this should go away in just a few laps. THIS IS IMPORTANT: Do not replace your flex joint with a piece of solid tubing. This defeats the whole purpose of the flex joint and it can very likely lead to pipe cracking and possible radio interference. Your flex joint will not leak oil all over the boat when the engine is properly tuned and the boat is properly set up.


35. Are the modified WYK33 carburetors more maintenance?

Be aware that that carburetor is a little bit more difficult to hook up good throttle linkage to and the plastic barrel assemblies will wear some and they need replacing from time to time, they are $20 each and they are already bored out by us.  You will also need some Loctite 222 to go with the carb, the info about that is on our web page under the instructions, set up help and needle settings button.

36. Can I still buy the Hi Rev engine?

We can still build a Hi Rev as a special order but it must be paid for up front.  We don't advertise them anymore because, simply stated, the Pioneer is a much better engine unless the only thing you are going to do is straight line in which case the Hi Rev has some advantages if it is run with the correct carburetor, flex length and prop. For serious straight line, the Hi Rev would be the best choice.

37. Can I use VP C12 racing fuel in my Quickdraw?

The VP C12 fuel will not hurt the QD but it will most likely run slower for you, it definitely produced less power on our dyno when I tried it.  The best performance from that engine will come from the lowest octane fuel you have available at the pump.  The reason for this is the higher octane fuel does not contain more energy per gallon, it just has a higher resistance to detonation.  In reality 87 octane has the highest energy per gallon but it has a lower resistance to detonation.  The QD is set up to not detonate on 87 octane and take advantage of the extra energy available in it.  One of the reasons we can get away with this is because the combustion chamber is so small.  Small combustion chambers resist detonation much better than big ones do.  That is why you could never get away with 87 octane running the compression ratio that the QD is running if it were in a 250cc engine or Chevrolet V8.  Keep in mind that most race fuels were designed for these full sized engines. 

38. Could you tell me if the QD 25 is 25.0 cc (so I can run in the 16 to 25 cc class in Australia) or 25.4 cc like the Zenoah 260?

It is 25.4cc because it uses a Zenoah crank and Zenoah piston, that means the same bore and stroke as a Zenoah. 

39. I would like to know if your pipes will fit the Zenoah engine.

Yes, our pipes will work on Zenoah 260 engines.  You need a water cooled exhaust flange to go between the engine and pipe which you can get from us.

40. Can I advance my ignition timing on my Pioneer or High Torque?

No, not on a Pioneer or High Torque engine. Your red source coil should be in the set of holes that is all the way to the right as you are facing the red coil on a side port engine. On the Pioneer or the rear exhaust High Torque the red source coil should be at the top set of holes when facing the red source coil. The advance set of holes are +5 degrees and +10 degrees. If you go to even the +5 degree advance setting, it will cause detonation and will eventually crack the head button. The old Hi Rev series engines used the +5 degree setting. The High Torque engine set on the +5 degree setting will have less low end torque and when it comes on the pipe it will hit harder but it will not make any more power, it will just cause a power band that is harder to drive and actually run slower. We continue to leave the advanced timing setting holes in the ignition plate in case we make a future change that does work better with the advance ignition timing. By doing this, the customer will not have to buy a new ignition plate if we make a modification in the future that works good with advance timing.